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Go Local in Kuala Lumpur: Three Things the Other Tourists Miss

Malaysian capital city Kuala Lumpur is world-famous for the Petronas Twin Towers, and every visitor hears about popular sights like the National Mosque, the Bird Park, and Batu Cave.

But the real strength of Kuala Lumpur is in its street life. Around the clock, the sidewalks are pulsing with local character, if you just know where to find it. Here are a few ideas to check out on your next visit:

1. Masjid India Night Market - every Saturday night, a narrow road called Lorong Tunku Abdul Rahman transforms from an anonymous alley into a bustling Malay street fair. It’s easy to overlook Malay culture and cuisine in predominantly Chinese Kuala Lumpur, so make sure you take advantage of this opportunity to see another side of Malaysia’s unique ethnic mix. You’ll find food, drinks, desserts, music, clothes, and a whole lot more.

WHERE: Lorong Tunku Abdul Rahman runs just behind Jalan TAR, a major thoroughfare running north from the old city center. If you’re riding the LRT, get off at the Masjid Jamek station and follow the crowds.

WHEN: Saturday nights, 6pm until 10pm.

2. Jalan Alor - Just around the corner from shopping zone Bukit Bintang, this street has been a mainstay of no-nonsense Chinese dining for decades. Almost 50 restaurants line both sides of the street, serving everything from fried rice to frog porridge. For a special treat, try the “chicken fish” at Restoran Meng Kee in the middle of the block.

WHERE: Jalan Alor is parallel to Jalan Bukit Bintang. Closest public transport is the KL Monorail’s Bukit Bintang station.

WHEN: Every night of the week, rain or shine. Most restaurants open at around 6pm and keep going until the last customers leave. A handful remain open around the clock, so won’t go hungry no matter when you arrive.

3. Kampung Baru - Right in the middle of some of Kuala Lumpur’s most expensive real estate, this enclave resists the march of time (and construction crews) thanks to a law guaranteeing the land here will always remain in the hands of the Malay families who live on it. Just a few hundred meters from the gleaming Petronas Towers, you can find houses on wooden stilts, and a slow-paced village lifestyle that almost seems to willfully exclude the hectic city outside. The main drag, Jalan Raja Muda Musa, is lined with little shops selling Malay food and sundries. In the side streets you’ll find old village-style wooden houses with friendly children playing out front.

WHERE: Take the LRT to the Kampung Baru station and then make two right turns to get to Jalan Raja Muda Musa, or walk to the kampung after checking out nearby Chow Kit market.

WHEN: Anytime. Friday just after noon you’ll be able to see the crowds pouring out of the mosque following prayers, a rare chance to see formal Malay costumes outside of hokey artificial settings. Saturday from 6pm until late there’s a street market that’s also worth checking out.

Max Carlton has been advising world travelers for almost twenty years. See his website for practical information on arriving in Kuala Lumpur.


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