It has been estimated that close on 1 million people take part in Jack the Ripper related tours in any one year in London. Interest in Jack the Ripper is increasing as are the tours that take visitors around the murder sites.
Virtually all the tours that venture into Jack the Ripper’s London are led by guides, some of whom are excellent, and some of whom are downright awful. Some of the tours limit the number of participants and ask you to book in advance. The majority advertise that there is no need to book and encourage you to “just turn up.” When you do so you simply hand over your money to the guide and off you go. The downside of the latter approach is that the companies are unable to predict how many people will take them at their word and “just turn up.” Thus the reality of this approach is that most of the tours have become vastly oversubscribed cattle drives that often consist of 200 to 300 people being taken round by just one guide.
As a result of these unsightly scrums there has been a growing trend in recent years for people to set out on their own and explore the streets of Jack the Ripper’s London independently. This approach has the benefit of being able to go at your own pace and in the company of those you choose as your companions. But it also has its downside in that certain streets in the East End are dangerous to venture in to and one wrong turn as you seek out this or that site can provide the intrepid explorer with a genuinely hair raising experience that was neither intended nor anticipated.
Yet the streets of the East End can be both fascinating and magical to discover and they really do have an awful lot to offer the independent wanderer. You can find yourself strolling through atmospheric old streets lined with 18th century houses that were once slum dwellings but which now change hands for in excess of £1 million ($1.8 million)! You can enjoy some of the finest ethnic food in the metropolis and then dip down a dismal looking alleyway to step into a traditional local pub or boozer frequented by cockney “characters” who seem trapped in a time warp. That is why exploring on your own is such a great and memorable experience. But if you are going to do so then it is wise to take as many safety precautions as possible to ensure that your journey isn’t rudely interrupted by any modern day members of London’s criminal fraternity.
Perhaps the first rule to independent exploring is to research your route well in advance and know exactly where you will be going and what streets you will be walking through. It might be worth checking your route with one of the local police stations. They should be able to advise on which streets it is not particularly advisable to venture in to.
The good news is that, on the whole, the area where Jack the Ripper struck is probably no more dangerous (today at least!!) than any other part of London. Most of the streets are busy and most of the people you encounter are law abiding citizens. However, just like all big cities there are those who are simply intent on spoiling things for you, so before you set out it’s worth ensuring that all valuables – purses, cameras etc. are kept under your full supervision. Don’t for example wander round with an open back pack that just invites those of a criminal persuasion to avail themselves of your largesse.
Also, be aware of your surroundings at all times and try and look like you belong. Nothing screams TOURIST more than standing in the middle of the pavement poring over a map wondering where to head to next. I personally have wandered about the streets of Jack the Ripper’s London at all times of the day and night for almost 30 years and the worst I have encountered have been the trucks and taxis whose drivers seem to see driving half on the pavement (side walk) half on the road as some right of passage.
My choice of clothing mostly consists of tatty trainers,’ time worn jeans and an Australian Dryazabone waxed coat that, though I say so myself, could easily pass muster for the garb of a dosser and down and out in any number of big cities. After all I’m not out to make a fashion statement I’m out to wander through Jack the Ripper’s London without let, hindrance or becoming another crime statistic. I’m not suggesting that you equal my sartorial elegance (or lack of it) but it is probably best not to go for the designer labels and the bespoke footwear.
Those modern banes of travelling by bus or underground, the ipod and mp3 player are also probably worth dispensing with. I know that several companies offer downloadable Jack the Ripper walks for your ipod and mp3 player, but I am genuinely dubious about the safety aspect of walking down some of the streets and alleyways they feature wearing an item that a) is much sought after by muggers and b) prevents you from being fully aware of your surroundings by impairing your ability to hear.
Ensuring that your valuables are out of sight and tucked away in an inner pocket is also a course of action that should probably go without saying but which is often ignored. The number of times I have seen visitors count out £10 or £20 notes (bills) in shops, pubs or snack bars in full view of all and sundry and then place the remainder in an easy to access back pocket honestly does beggar belief. Likewise, putting the money visibly into a purse pocket is not a wise course of action. Estimate how much money you will need whilst out on the streets and have just that amount to hand where it is secure yet easily accessible. Don’t make life easy for bag thieves or pick pockets.
If you visit a pub or a restaurant don’t do what so many visitors do and put your back pack or purse down on the floor at your feet then forget about it whilst you are enjoying your drink or meal. Bag thieves are ever vigilant for such “freebies” and are often extremely competent at pretending to stoop down to tie a shoe lace whilst sneaking purses or bags under their coats. Keep your bag strap around your leg, or even better place your bag or purse on the table in front of you attached to your wrist. That way you will avoid the annoying hassle of having to waste valuable vacation time phoning credit card companies, etc. to cancel cards, or heading to your embassy to report your passport stolen.
London is a great city to explore on foot. The East End and the area where the Jack the Ripper crimes took place is well worth a visit. On the whole it is as safe as any quarter of any big city and those who become the victims of criminals have often been careless and made it easy for the criminals to target them. Remember that, on the whole, pick pockets, bag thieves and muggers are cowards who target the vulnerable and don’t want to draw attention to themselves. Make it as difficult as possible for them to steal from you and they will leave you alone and go searching elsewhere.
So enjoy discovering the streets of Jack the Ripper’s London at your own pace and in the company of those you choose as your companions. But be streetwise as you do so and, contradictory as it might sound, you might just enjoy the experience of a safe walk with Jack the Ripper!
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Richard Jones is an internationally published travel writer whose books include Myths and Legends of Britain and Ireland and Haunted Britain and Ireland. He regularly appears on both the History and Discovery Channels and conducts regular London Walks as well as tours of historic Britain and Ireland.
Extracts from this article may be used but full acknowledgement must be given to Richard Jones as the originating author and all usage must include a link to his website at http://www.jack-the-ripper-walk.co.uk |